The now-famous Stari Most, blown to smitherines by the Bosnian Croat who protested his ICTY verdict by drinking acid in court and killing himself last year. An asshole, but definitely a Balkan one.

Shit got real for me here, between Višegrad and Mostar I found myself standing in front of two bridges to which have been dedicated thousands of words, in hundreds of books. This trip was really emotional for me on a lot of levels; these places are ones I have wanted to see for many years. Many things that seemed out of reach to me years ago are not so anymore, and I felt that gratitude every day of this trip, to this place I had devoured in books and film, and now, in the flesh, and stone.